Tuesday, March 27, 2012
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
Friday, March 9, 2012
MP3 Logs
MB
Log Date: 1/31/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Today I started testing procedures
-The first test was checking that all of the motors worked out of water and in water.
Work Completed
-All tests for the motors
Reminders
-Need a bigger tank
MB
Log Date: 2/2/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Camera needed to be tested out of water and in water.
Work Completed
-Finished both tests and took videos of each
Reminders
-Bring an underwater flashlight to Neptune Pool
MB
Log Date: 2/7/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Testing of net
-Calculate buoyancy of ROV
Work Completed
-Net was tested. Struggles while net is underwater.
-Buoyancy calculated at about 5 pounds. Eric has specifics
Reminders
-Ballast tanks need to be created
MB
Log Date: 2/9/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Create ballast tanks
Work Completed
-Ballast tanks completed
Reminders
-Ballast tanks not as heavy as expected.
MB
Log Date: 2/14/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Testing in Neptune High School pool
Work Completed
- Testing in Neptune High School Pool
Reminders
- Fix switched in control box
MB
Log Date: 2/16/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Took camera apart to leave in rice
Work Completed
- Left camera in ice so that the lens could dry
Reminders
- This solution may not work
MB
Log Date: 2/21/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Re-creating camera pod
Work Completed
- PVC cylinder cut and plexi-glass cut
Reminders
- Testing procedures is due soon
MB
Log Date: 2/23/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Putting camera pod together
Work Completed
- PVC cylinder cut and plexi-glass cut
Reminders
- Testing procedures is due soon
MB
Log Date: 2/28/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Went to Neptune High School for testing.
- Building a new camera case
- Fixing control box
Work Completed
- Tested in Neptune High School
- Broken switch in control box is working
Reminders
- Get a silica packet for camera enclosure
MB
Log Date: 3/1/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Started design and self evaluation
Work Completed
- Finished camera enclosure
Reminders
- No reminders
MB
Log Date: 3/7/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Testing in Neptune High School
Work Completed
- Completed all of the aspects of the SeaPerch challenge perfectly
Reminders
- Finish the Self and design evaluation by Thursday
MB
Log Date: 3/9/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Poster board for project
Work Completed
- Self and design evaluation
Reminders
- No reminders
MB
Log Date: 1/31/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Today I started testing procedures
-The first test was checking that all of the motors worked out of water and in water.
Work Completed
-All tests for the motors
Reminders
-Need a bigger tank
MB
Log Date: 2/2/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Camera needed to be tested out of water and in water.
Work Completed
-Finished both tests and took videos of each
Reminders
-Bring an underwater flashlight to Neptune Pool
MB
Log Date: 2/7/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Testing of net
-Calculate buoyancy of ROV
Work Completed
-Net was tested. Struggles while net is underwater.
-Buoyancy calculated at about 5 pounds. Eric has specifics
Reminders
-Ballast tanks need to be created
MB
Log Date: 2/9/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Create ballast tanks
Work Completed
-Ballast tanks completed
Reminders
-Ballast tanks not as heavy as expected.
MB
Log Date: 2/14/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Testing in Neptune High School pool
Work Completed
- Testing in Neptune High School Pool
Reminders
- Fix switched in control box
MB
Log Date: 2/16/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Took camera apart to leave in rice
Work Completed
- Left camera in ice so that the lens could dry
Reminders
- This solution may not work
MB
Log Date: 2/21/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
-Re-creating camera pod
Work Completed
- PVC cylinder cut and plexi-glass cut
Reminders
- Testing procedures is due soon
MB
Log Date: 2/23/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Putting camera pod together
Work Completed
- PVC cylinder cut and plexi-glass cut
Reminders
- Testing procedures is due soon
MB
Log Date: 2/28/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Went to Neptune High School for testing.
- Building a new camera case
- Fixing control box
Work Completed
- Tested in Neptune High School
- Broken switch in control box is working
Reminders
- Get a silica packet for camera enclosure
MB
Log Date: 3/1/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Started design and self evaluation
Work Completed
- Finished camera enclosure
Reminders
- No reminders
MB
Log Date: 3/7/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Testing in Neptune High School
Work Completed
- Completed all of the aspects of the SeaPerch challenge perfectly
Reminders
- Finish the Self and design evaluation by Thursday
MB
Log Date: 3/9/2012
Marking Period 3
ROV
Work Started
- Poster board for project
Work Completed
- Self and design evaluation
Reminders
- No reminders
Wednesday, February 15, 2012
CONDENSATION ON CAMERA LENS
Mark,
Condensation on the inside of your camera lens is a function of the moisture content inside the camera having a dew point higher than the temperature of the lens.
When you put the unit in the water the temperature of the lens will eventually go down to the temperature of the surrounding water. This is like having your windshield fog inside a car.
there are two ways to solve the problem:
1.) Add heat somehow to keep the lens from getting so cold.
2.) rdeuce the dew point of the are by drying it out.
For solution 1.) you would need to have some form of electric heat, say a resistor, but it gets a bit complicated in terms of making sure you do not over-heat and damage the camera. this would also add a load to your battery pack.
For solution 2.) you need to be able to open the camera and purge it with something like compressed Nitrogen (that will have no moisture in it) or compressed air that has been dried out as part of the compressor system. Then you would need to immediately seal it back up. Alternatively, if there is place to put dessicant dryer packs (the kind you see inside medicine bottles for instance) inside you could do that and then seal it back up. You can not count on using an already opened dessicant, so you would have to get brand-new ones.
Keep me posted and let me know what you think you can do. Also - you can always text or call me at 631-316-2193 if you want faster feedback.
Kevin
Condensation on the inside of your camera lens is a function of the moisture content inside the camera having a dew point higher than the temperature of the lens.
When you put the unit in the water the temperature of the lens will eventually go down to the temperature of the surrounding water. This is like having your windshield fog inside a car.
there are two ways to solve the problem:
1.) Add heat somehow to keep the lens from getting so cold.
2.) rdeuce the dew point of the are by drying it out.
For solution 1.) you would need to have some form of electric heat, say a resistor, but it gets a bit complicated in terms of making sure you do not over-heat and damage the camera. this would also add a load to your battery pack.
For solution 2.) you need to be able to open the camera and purge it with something like compressed Nitrogen (that will have no moisture in it) or compressed air that has been dried out as part of the compressor system. Then you would need to immediately seal it back up. Alternatively, if there is place to put dessicant dryer packs (the kind you see inside medicine bottles for instance) inside you could do that and then seal it back up. You can not count on using an already opened dessicant, so you would have to get brand-new ones.
Keep me posted and let me know what you think you can do. Also - you can always text or call me at 631-316-2193 if you want faster feedback.
Kevin
Monday, February 13, 2012
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
Friday, January 20, 2012
MP2 Log
MP2 Log 11/8
Work Started:
- I started working on my plan of procedures
Work completed:
- I did not complete any work
Reminders:
- No reminders
MP2 Log 11/10
Work Started:
-Lists for plan of procedure
-Plan of procedures
Work Completed:
-Lists for plan of procedures
Notes:
-Don't forget to add pictures to plan of procedures
-Contact Kevin
MP2 Log 11/15
Work Started:
- Plan of Procedures
Work Finished:
-Diagram of wires and connections
Notes:
-Finish the plan of procedures before it is too late
Log MP2 11/17
Work Started:
-N/A
Work completed:
-N/A
Notes:
-I am still in the middle of my plan of procedures.
MP2 Log 11/22
Work Started:
-N/A
Work Completed;
-N/A
Notes:
-Still on my plan of procedures, almost done.
MP2 log 12/1
Work Started
-What to buy list
Work Completed
-Plan of procedures
-What to buy list
Notes
- Next class, buy everything that is needed using debit card
MP2 log 12/6
Work Started
- Building process
Work Completed
- I have finished drilling holes in the film canisters
Notes
- Will be waterproofing motors soon
MP2 log 12/8
Work Started
- Motor waterproofing
Work Completed
- Wire connections and taping
Notes
- Save wax for other groups
MP2 log 12/15
Work Started
- Waxing motors
Work completed
- Waxing motors
Notes
- Will start soldering next class
MP2 log 12/20
Work Started
- DPDT switch soldering
Work Completed
- DPDT switch soldering
Notes
- Next step is creating control box
MP2 log 12/22
Work started:
- Building the control box
Work completed
- Finished soldering all of the switches
-Next step is putting the control box together.
MP2 log 1/3
Work Started:
- Putting switches in control box
- Connecting propellers
Work Completed
- Putting switches in control box
- Control box finished
Notes:
- none
MP2 log 1/5
Work Started:
- Motor mounting
- Running tether
Work Completed:
- Running tether
Notes:
- Camera will need to bee waterproofed a different way.
MP2 log 1/10
Work Started
-Camera waterproofing
Work finished
- Motor mounting
Notes
- Motors mounted a different way from developmental work
MP2 log 1/12
Work Started:
-Camera mounting
Work completed:
-Camera waterproofing
-Camera mounting
Notes:
-New design for up/down motors possible
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Midterm
STEMM Relation to Selected Design Solution
Mark Betancourt
IntroductionIn 2010, the major BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico devastated the wildlife and the local fishing business of that region. The problem that the engineers faced when the spill happened was that the engineers could stop the flow of oil. SeaPerch saw this situation as a perfect platform for the SeaPerch 2011 competition. This competition consists of performing three tasks, stopping the flow of oil, capping the “well”, and collecting the spilled oil from the surface. For this competition, teams would use a self-made underwater ROV, shown in Figure 1-1 below. Underwater ROV’s are tools that modern engineers use often, and the ROV’s for this competition are a simplified version of those more ROV’s. Figure 1-2 shows the ROV that my group has completed for the SeaPerch challenge. The ROV has everything it needs to finish the SeaPerch challenge.
How Project Relates to Systems Engineering
The design for the ROV electronics is and innovation, not an invention. The design is an innovation because my design is improving on an invention that has already been invented. The design itself is a component of a technological open system. The ROV is an open system because, while in use, the ROV is constantly interacting with the surrounding water.
Types of Engineering Involved With Design
The first type of engineering that the design deals with is electronic engineering. The design deals with electrical engineering because the design has many electronic components that had to used to complete the challenge. Some of these electrical components include the electric motors, the video camera, and the control box for the ROV. The design also deals with electrical engineering because the design is an electrical system that runs positive to negative in parallel. Electronic and electrical engineering go hand in hand. The design deals with hydrodynamics because; the motors that will propel the ROV have to move water efficiently which is part of the design. Mechatronics is also prevalent in the design because the design falls under two main components of mechatronics, mechanical engineering and electrical engineering. The design falls under naval engineering slightly because, the design deals with underwater propulsion which is a major part of naval engineering.
Types of Manufacturing Involved With Design
The design uses the English system of manufacturing. The design uses this system because not every piece will be exactly identical. This is because each piece as to be constructed using the builder’s hands, which are skilled, but will not create identical parts. Also, the design uses flexible manufacturing because, as demonstrated in the building process, many parts of the design had to be changed on the spot because the plans were not perfect on paper. Lastly, prefabrication was used because there were multiple parts of my design that were built and then put together.
Manufacturing Categories Involved With Design
One manufacturing category that the design falls under is electronics. The design falls under this category because the design has many electronic components including a camera, a control box, and multiple motors. Also, the design deals with the manufacturing category of plastics. This is because; the camera design involved the constructore cutting two circular sections of plexiglass and drilling a hole in one of them.
Science Concepts that Apply to Design
One law that the design follows Kirchhoff’s Second Law which states that the directed sum of the electrical potential differences (voltage) around any closed circuit is zero. In other words, this means that in a circuit, if there is a resistance, the voltage at the negative end of the circuit will equal zero. If there is no resistance, the heat caused will heat and melt the wire. During the building process, one of the motors in the design seized. When the switch was flipped on, all the wiring inside of the control box got extremely hot because there was no resistance in the circuit causing a lot of melting. The next class, the constructor had to go in and re-wire every ruined connection. To fix this problem, the constructer un-seized the motor and the resistance created from the motor restored the circuit to working condition. Figures 2-1 and 2-2 below show circuits with resistance as well as the circuit that will be used in my design.
Technology Aspects that Apply to Design
The technology that is greatly part of the design is the advancement of magnets. The small 12 volt motors that are used to propel the ROV in my design use magnets to spin the propeller. The current flowing to the motor powers the magnet which spins the magnetic shaft. This concept also explains why the motor spins the other way when the polarity is reversed. Another technology that the design uses is infrared lighting. The camera I chose for my design senses when there is little or no light, turning on the infrared lights. The lens then switches to a mode where the lens senses the infrared light bouncing off the surrounding objects, displaying a black and white image on a monitor. The two figures below illustrate a DC motor and an infrared camera.
Mathematical Computations Involved With Design
Conceptually, the design calls for a computation that finds the current running through each motor so that the motors do not get overheated due to too much current. For this, the resistance of the motors must be known, and the voltage must also be known. In this design, these two values are known because, the battery and the motors have already been calculated in the factories from which they came for these two values. The diagrams below illustrate the battery and the motors and what they are rated to.
Conclusion
The design for the 2011 SeaPerch competition is an innovation of a component of a technological open system. The design deals with mostly electric and electronic engineering. As for manufacturing, my design involves the English system of manufacturing, flexible manufacturing, and prefabrication. The final design solution will use five motors connected to DPDT switches that can switch the polarity of the motor, changing the direction of the propeller. Also, there will be camera that can work in little or no light. The most significant technology being used in the design is magnetic motors that can work in forward and revere, and a camera that can work in little light. Scientific factors involved with the design include Kirchhoff’s Second Law, and properties of current. The mathematical equation used in the design is V=IR which is Ohm’s Law. This concludes the connection of the design to STEMM.
Monday, January 16, 2012
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
OK, Here goes an attempt to upload a picture file where I used a bit of cut-and-paste to highlight the concept. In the one location I am indicating changing from a T to a four-way connector to gain spacing. The concept would continue by adding "T's" elsewhere to accomplish the same effect.
Let's see if this posts.
Kevin
Thursday, December 22, 2011
FEEDBACK ON CAMERA
Mark,
Well I think I need to learn a bit more about how to use this blog. I thought I entered some feedback the other day, but now I can not find it.
My intended post went something like this:
After reviewing your design again, I do not think there is a reason to go away from using tie wraps for the camera mount - it is also to be used for the motors, and tie wraps are so well-designed the police use them as make-shift handcuffs for riot control if they need to make mass arrests. At worst you may want to put a few side-by-side to add strength and stability.
Separately - I would recommend making a hollow mock up of your camera and wrapping that in the plastic to perform a leak test without risking the camera.
Hopefully this post works - I'll keep cecking to see.
Well I think I need to learn a bit more about how to use this blog. I thought I entered some feedback the other day, but now I can not find it.
My intended post went something like this:
After reviewing your design again, I do not think there is a reason to go away from using tie wraps for the camera mount - it is also to be used for the motors, and tie wraps are so well-designed the police use them as make-shift handcuffs for riot control if they need to make mass arrests. At worst you may want to put a few side-by-side to add strength and stability.
Separately - I would recommend making a hollow mock up of your camera and wrapping that in the plastic to perform a leak test without risking the camera.
Hopefully this post works - I'll keep cecking to see.
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Plan of Procedures
Materials List
Tools List
Parts List
Diagram P5-2
Item | Description | QTY | Size | Remarks |
1 | 24 AWG Red Stranded Hookup Wire | 1 | 2' | |
2 | 24 AWG Black Stranded Hookup Wire | 1 | 2' | |
3 | 18 Awg Speaker Wire | 1 | 6' | |
4 | 350 MHz Cat 5e Solid PVC White Cable | 2 | 40' | 1 Comes in Seaperch kit |
5 | Electrical Tape - Black | 1 | Roll | |
6 | Motor. 0.7 A | 5 | 12 VDC | 3 Come in SeaSwitch Box Kit, extras are free |
7 | Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charger | 1 | 12 V, 500 mA | |
8 | Sealed Lead Acid Battery | 1 | 12 V, 7 Ah | |
9 | Battery Charger Cable | 1 | SLA Cord | |
10 | SeaSwitch Control Box Kit | 1 | N/A | Contents roughly unknown |
11 | Propellers - Plastic | 5 | 1/8" Shaft Size | 3 come in Seaperch kit, extras are free |
12 | Propeller Shaft Threaded Coupler | 5 | N/A | 3 come in Seaperch kit, extras are free |
13 | Alligator Clip | 2 | N/A | |
14 | Black Alligator Clip Insulator | 1 | N/A | |
15 | Red Alligator Clip Insulator | 1 | N/A | |
16 | Computer Monitor | 1 | N/A | Free |
17 | CMOS Surveillance Camera | 1 | N/A | $20.73 |
18 | Zip Tie | 1 | Box | $4.00 |
19 | DPDT switch | 5 | N/A | 3 come in Seaperch kit, extras are $1.00 each |
20 | Video RCA Cable | 1 | 40' | |
21 | Shrink Wrap | 1 | 8' | |
22 | Male power plug pigtail cable | 1 | 3' | To connect camera, $1.59 |
23 | Lighter | 1 | N/A | For shrink wrap |
24 | 1 Solder | 1 | 60/40 | |
25 | Clamp | 3 | 2 hole 1-3/16" Outside Diameter |
Tools List
Item | Description | Use |
1 | Wire Cutter | To cut wires |
2 | Wire Stripper | To strip wires |
3 | Scissor | To cut electrical tape |
4 | Plyer | To pull zip ties |
5 | Film Cannister | To waterproof motors, 1 extra for $0.59 |
6 | Wax | To waterproof motors |
7 | Drill | To cut necessary holes in control box |
8 | Drill Bit | 5/64" |
9 | Drill Bit | 1/4" |
10 | Metal Cup | Melt wax in this |
11 | Electric Hotplate | Used for melting wax |
12 | Potting Holder | For protection when dealing with hot wax |
13 | Goggles | For protection, wear the whole time |
14 | Sodering iron | To soder connections in control box and motors |
Parts List
Item | Description | QTY | Size | Remarks |
1 | Waterproof motor | 5 | 12 VDC | Will be made using wax and film cannisters |
Part P1: Motor setup
- Connect each motor (M6) to a 12V battery (M8) using positive (M1) and negative wires (M2).
- If the motor (M6) spins clockwise, mark the terminal the red wire is attached to as positive and the other as negative.
Part P2: Motor Waterproofing
- Using electrical tape (M5), cover each hole on every motor.
- Cut 6” off of each Cat5e wire (M4) and remove the inner wires. Strip every inner wire ¼”.
- Connect each pair of color/white wires to the motors (M6). NOTE: Leave the following extra pairs of wires to the side: green/white, blue/white, grey/white.
- Designate the following motors to their function: motor with green wire- Up/down, motor with blue wire-Left/right, motor with grey wire- starboard forward/reverse, motors with orange wires- one is for port forward/reverse and the other motor is for accessory control. REMEMBER: The color wire in each pair is positive and the white wire is negative.
- Drill a 5/64” (T8) hole in the direct center in both the top (cap) and bottom of all five film canisters (T5). (There will a dimple on both the top (cap) and bottom, this is the exact center) Make sure to drill directly of this dimple.
- Remove the caps of the film canisters and run one of the pairs of motor wires from step 4 through each. Refer to diagram P2-1.
- Insert a Propeller Shaft Threaded Coupler (M12) into each motor (M6).
- Put the wax bowl ring in a metal cup and put the metal cup (T10) onto a hot plate (T11).
- When the wax is melted, mark a line 7mm from the bottom each film canister (T5).
- Carefully pour wax up to the 7mm line in one of the film canisters (T5).
- Place the motor (M6) in the canister (T5), and push through the wax until the propeller shaft is through the bottom whole completely.
- Place this canister (T5) on the potting holder (T12).
- Repeat steps 10-12 for the other 4 motors (M6).
- Once wax is dry, pour more hot wax on top the hardened wax all the way up to the edge of the canister (T5). While the wax is still liquid, close the cap. (CAUTION: watch out for spraying hot wax).
- Repeat step 14 for other four motors (M6).
- Check to make sure all motors (P1) spin. If they do not or spin slowly, use your finger to manually spin the motor, then try again with a power source (M8).
Diagram P2-1
Part P3: Motor and Camera Mounting
- Mount the two Forward/Reverse motors (P1) using zip ties (M18) on the front and rear of the motor.
- Use Diagram P3-1 for motor (P1) placement.
- For the Up/Down motor (P1), use pipe clamp (M25) to attach to specified spot on ROV shown in diagram P3-1
- For the left/right motor (P1), use two zip ties (M18) on the front and back of motor to attach it to the ROV. (Use diagram P3-1 for placement)
- For accessory motor (P1), leave to side for the person controlling the arm to mount.
- Camera (M17) should be held down using zip ties (M18) on both sides of the mounting platform. Use diagram P3-2 for placement.
Diagram P3-1
Diagram P3-2
Part P4: Control Box Setup
- Use a ¼” drill bit (T9) to make seven holes in the control box (M10)
- Make three holes on top of the box (M10), one being in the exact center and the other two being on ether side of the exact center hole. (allow at least ½” between the three holes)
- On the front and back of the control box, drill a ¼” inch hole in the center of the surface.
- On the front of the control box (M10), drill two holes on either side of the center hole at least ¾” from the center hole.
- For step 2, 3, and 4, attempt to duplicate diagram P4-1
- Unscrew the top nut on each DPDT switch (M19) using your finger, refer to diagram P4-2
- Separate the top of the control box (M10) from the rest of the control box using your hands.
- Place a DPDT switch (M19) in each of the ¼” drill holes in the control box (M10) that are colored red in diagram P4-3. Screw the top nut of each DPDT switch (M19) back on with your finger, securing the DPDT switches (M19) to the control box (M10).
- Run the red (M1) and black (M2) wires through the front facing center hole in the control box (M10). (Colored blue in diagram P4-3). Push in enough so that 3” of red (M1) and black (M2) wire is in the control box (M10).
- Run both Cat5e wires (M4) through the back facing center ¼” drill hole. (Colored green in diagram P4-3). Push in enough so the 6” of each Cat5e wire (M4) is inside the control box.
- Strip ¼” off of the black (M2) and red wires (M1).
- Strip 4” off of both Cat5e wires (M4).
Diagram P4-1
Diagram P4-2
Diagram P4-3
Part P5: Wire connection
- Separate the two 6’ strands of speaker wire (M3). (The speaker wires will be connected from the manufacturer)
- Cut one of the 6’ strands of speaker wire (M3) into 6 10” strands and 10 1” strands. (These strands will be the long and short negative speaker wires in diagram P5-1)
- Cut the remaining 6’ foot strand of speaker wire (M3) into 6 1’ strands (These strands will be the positive speaker wires in diagram P5-1)
- Strip every strand of positive and negative speaker wire ¼” on both ends of each strand.
- Strip ¼” of every positive and negative inner Cat5e wire (M4).
- Designate a green blue and grey positive wire from one of the Cat5e wires (M4) to be unnecessary.
- Wrap these three designated inner Cat5e wires (M4) and their negative paired white wire in electrical tape (M5) and tape them to the bottom of the control box (M10) using more electrical tape (M5).
- Using diagram P5-1, make all 48 labeled connections by intertwining the wires securely and wrapping them in electrical tape(M5).
- EXCEPTIONS: For connections 37-48 and video connection A, cut a 1” sleeve of shrink wrap (M21), place the sleeve of shrink wrap on one side of the wire, make the connection, wrap the connection in electrical tape (M5), slip the shrink wrap over the connection, and use a lighter (M23) to heat and shrink the shrink wrap. For connections 2, and 3 place stripped wire inside of alligator clip slot and crimp the connector, then attach the alligator clip (M13) to the battery by opening the mouth of the clip and allowing it to grip the battery terminal (M8). For connections 5-14 and 17-36, make connection by securely wrapping wire around the switch prong (Do not use electrical tape)
- Use diagram P5-1 and P5-2 to check the connections that are made by using diagram P5-1.
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